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- Landor's Cottage
-
- A PENDANT TO 'THE DOMAIN OF ARNHEIM'
-
- During a pedestrian tour last summer, through one or two of the river
- counties of New York, I found myself, as the day declined, somewhat
- embarrassed about the road I was pursuing. The land undulated very
- remarkably; and my path, for the last hour, had wound about and about so
- confusedly, in its effort to keep in the valleys, that I no longer knew
- in what direction lay the sweet village of B-----, where I had
- determined to stop for the night. The sun had scarcely shone--strictly
- speaking--during the day, which, nevertheless, had been unpleasantly
- warm. A smoky mist, resembling that of the Indian summer, enveloped all
- things, and, of course, added to my uncertainty. Not that I cared much
- about the matter. If I did not hit upon the village before sunset, or
- even before dark, it was more than possible that a little Dutch
- farmhouse, or something of that kind, would soon make its
- appearance--although, in fact, the neighbourhood (perhaps on account of
- being more picturesque than fertile) was very sparsely inhabited. At
- all events, with my knapsack for a pillow, and my hound as a sentry, a
- bivouac in the open air was just the thing which would have amused me.
- I sauntered on, therefore, quite at ease--Ponto taking charge of my
- gun--until at length, just as I had begun to consider whether the
- numerous little glades that led hither and thither were intended to be
- paths at all, I was conducted by one of the most promising of them into
- an unquestionable carriage-track. There could be no mistaking it. The
- traces of light wheels were evident; and although the tall shrubberies
- and overgrown undergrowth met overhead, there was no obstruction
- whatever below, even to the passage of a Virginian mountain wagon--the
- most aspiring vehicle, I take it, of its kind. The road, however,
- except in being open through the wood--if wood be not too weighty a name
- for such an assemblage of light trees--and except in the particulars of
- evident wheel-tracks--bore no resemblance to any road I had before seen.
- The tracks of which I speak were but faintly perceptible, having been
- impressed upon the firm, yet pleasantly moist surface of--what looked
- more like green Genoese velvet than anything else. It was grass,
- clearly--but grass such as we seldom see out of England--so short, so
- thick, so even, and so vivid in colour. Not a single impediment lay in
- the wheel-route- -not even a chip or dead twig. The stones that once
- obstructed the way had been carefully placed--not thrown--along the
- sides of the lane, so as to define its boundaries at bottom with a kind
- of half-precise, half-negligent, and wholly picturesque definition.
- Clumps of wild flowers grew everywhere, luxuriantly, in the interspaces.
-
- What to make of all this, of course I knew not. Here was art
- undoubtedly--that did not surprise me--all roads, in the ordinary sense,
- are works of art; nor can I say that there was much to wonder at in the
- mere excess of art manifested; all that seemed to have been done, might
- have been done here--with such natural 'capabilities' (as they have it
- in the books on Landscape Gardening)--with very little labour and
- expense. No; it was not the amount but the character of the art which
- caused me to take a seat on one of the blossomy stones and gaze up and
- down this fairy-like avenue for half an hour or more in bewildered
- admiration. One thing became more and more evident the longer I gazed:
- an artist, and one with a most scrupulous eye for form, had
- superintended all these arrangements. The greatest care had been taken
- to preserve a due medium between the neat and graceful on the one hand,
- and the pittoresco, in the true sense of the Italian term, on the other.
- There were few straight, and no long uninterrupted lines. The same
- effect of curvature or of colour, appeared twice, usually, but not
- oftener, at any one point of view. Everywhere was variety in
- uniformity. It was a piece of 'composition', in which the most
- fastidiously critical taste could scarcely have suggested an emendation.
-
- I had turned to the right as I entered the road, and now, arising, I
- continued in the same direction. The path was so serpentine, that at no
- moment could I trace its course for more than two or three paces in
- advance. Its character did not undergo any material change.
-
- Presently the murmur of water fell gently upon my ear--and in a few
- moments afterwards, as I turned with the road somewhat more abruptly
- than hitherto, I became aware that a building of some kind lay at the
- foot of a gentle declivity just before me. I could see nothing
- distinctly on account of the mist which occupied all the little valley
- below. A gentle breeze, however, now arose, as the sun was about
- descending; and while I remained standing on the brow of the slope, the
- fog gradually became dissipated into wreaths, and so floated over the
- scene.
-
- As it came fully into view--thus gradually as I describe it- -piece by
- piece, here a tree, there a glimpse of water, and here again the summit
- of a chimney, I could scarcely help fancying that the whole was one of
- the ingenious illusions sometimes exhibited under the name of 'vanishing
- pictures'.
-
- By the time, however, that the fog had thoroughly disappeared, the sun
- had made its way down behind the gentle hills, and thence, as if with a
- slight chassez to the south, had come again fully into sight; glaring
- with a purplish lustre through a chasm that entered the valley from the
- west. Suddenly, therefore--and as if by the hand of magic--this whole
- valley and everything in it became brilliantly visible.
-
- The first coup d'oeil, as the sun slid into the position described,
- impressed me very much as I have been impressed when a boy, by the
- concluding scene of some well-arranged theatrical spectacle or
- melodrama. Not even the monstrosity of colour was wanting; for the
- sunlight came out through the chasm, tinted all orange and purple; while
- the vivid green of the grass in the valley was reflected more or less
- upon all objects, from the curtain of vapour that still hung overhead,
- as if loth to take its total departure from a scene so enchantingly
- beautiful.
-
- The little vale into which I thus peered down from under the fog-canopy,
- could not have been more than four hundred yards long; while in breadth
- it varied from fifty to one hundred and fifty, or perhaps two hundred.
- It was most narrow at its northern extremity, opening out as it tended
- southwardly, but with no very precise regularity. The widest portion
- was within eighty yards of the southern extreme. The slopes which
- encompassed the vale could not fairly be called hills, unless at their
- northern face. Here a precipitous ledge of granite arose to a height of
- some ninety feet; and, as I have mentioned, the valley at this point was
- not more than fifty feet wide; but as the visitor proceeded southwardly
- from this cliff, he found on his right hand and on his left, declivities
- at once less high, less precipitous, and less rocky. All, in a word,
- sloped and softened to the south; and yet the whole vale was engirdled
- by eminences, more or less high, except at two points. One of these I
- have already spoken of. It lay considerably to the north of west, and
- was where the setting sun made its way, as I have before described, into
- the amphitheatre, through a cleanly-cut natural cleft in the granite
- embankment; this fissure might have been ten yards wide at its widest
- point, so far as the eye could trace it. It seemed to lead up, up like
- a natural causeway, into the recesses of unexplored mountains and
- forests. The other opening was directly at the southern end of the
- vale. Here, generally, the slopes were nothing more than gentle
- inclinations, extending from east to west about one hundred and fifty
- yards. In the middle of this extent was a depression, level with the
- ordinary floor of the valley. As regards vegetation, as well as in
- respect to everything else, the scene softened and sloped to the south.
- To the north--on the craggy precipice--a few paces from the
- verge--upsprang the magnificent trunks of numerous hickories, black
- walnuts, and chestnuts, interspersed with occasional oak; and the strong
- lateral branches thrown out by the walnuts especially, spread far over
- the edge of the cliff. Proceeding southwardly, the explorer saw, at
- first, the same class of trees, but less and less lofty and Salvatorish
- in character; then he saw the gentler elm, succeeded by the sassafras
- and locust--these again by the softer linden, red-bud, catalpa, and
- maple--these yet again by still more graceful and modest varieties. The
- whole face of the southern declivity was covered with wild shrubbery
- alone--an occasional silver willow or white poplar excepted. In the
- bottom of the valley itself--(for it must be borne in mind that the
- vegetation hitherto mentioned grew only on the cliffs or
- hill-sides)--were to be seen three insulated trees. One was an elm of
- fine size and exquisite form: it stood guard over the southern gate of
- the vale. Another was a hickory, much larger than the elm, and
- altogether a much finer tree, although both were exceedingly beautiful:
- it seemed to have taken charge of the north-western entrance, springing
- from a group of rocks in the very jaws of the ravine, and throwing its
- graceful body, at an angle of nearly forty-five degrees, far out into
- the sunshine of the amphitheatre. About thirty yards east of this tree
- stood, however, the pride of the valley, and beyond all question the
- most magnificent tree I have ever seen, unless, perhaps, among the
- cypresses of the Itchiatuckanee. It was a triple-stemmed tulip
- tree--the Liriodendron Tulipiferum--one of the natural order of
- magnolias. Its three trunks separated from the parent at about three
- feet from the soil, and diverging very slightly and gradually, were not
- more than four feet apart at the point where the largest stem shot out
- into foliage: this was at an elevation of about eighty feet. The whole
- height of the principal division was one hundred and twenty feet.
- Nothing can surpass in beauty the form, or the glossy, vivid green of
- the leaves of the tulip tree. In the present instance they were fully
- eight inches wide; but their glory was altogether eclipsed by the
- gorgeous splendour of the profuse blossoms. Conceive, closely
- congregated, a million of the largest and most resplendent tulips! Only
- thus can the reader get any idea of the picture I would convey. And
- then the stately grace of the clean, delicately-granulated columnar
- stems, the largest four feet in diameter, at twenty from the ground.
- The innumerable blossoms, mingling with those of other trees scarcely
- less beautiful, although infinitely less majestic, filled the valley
- with more than Arabian perfumes.
-
- The general floor of the amphitheatre was grass of the same character as
- that I had found in the road: if anything, more deliciously soft, thick,
- velvety, and miraculously green. It was hard to conceive how all this
- beauty had been attained.
-
- I have spoken of the two openings into the vale. From the one to the
- north-west issued a rivulet, which came, gently murmuring and slightly
- foaming, down the ravine, until it dashed against the group of rocks out
- of which sprang the insulated hickory. Here, after encircling the tree,
- it passed on a little to the north of east, leaving the tulip tree some
- twenty feet to the south, and making no decided alteration in its course
- until it came near the midway between the eastern and western boundaries
- of the valley. At this point, after a series of sweeps, it turned off
- at right angles and pursued a generally southern direction--meandering
- as it went--until it became lost in a small lake of irregular figure
- (although roughly oval), that lay gleaming near the lower extremity of
- the vale. This lakelet was, perhaps, a hundred yards in diameter at its
- widest part. No crystal could be clearer than its water. Its bottom,
- which could be distinctly seen, consisted altogether of pebbles
- brilliantly white. Its banks, of the emerald grass already described,
- rounded, rather than sloped, off into the clear heaven below; and so
- clear was this heaven, so perfectly, at times, did it reflect all
- objects above it, that where the true bank ended and where the mimic one
- commenced, it was a point of no little difficulty to determine. The
- trout, and some other varieties of fish, with which this pond seemed to
- be almost inconveniently crowded, had all the appearance of veritably
- flying-fish. It was almost impossible to believe that they were not
- absolutely suspended in the air. A light birch canoe that lay placidly
- on the water, was reflected in its minutest fibres with a fidelity
- unsurpassed by the most exquisitely polished mirror. A small island,
- fairly laughing with flowers in full bloom, and affording little more
- space than just enough for a picturesque little building, seemingly a
- fowl-house--arose from the lake not far from its northern shore--to
- which it was connected by means of an inconceivably light-looking and
- yet very primitive bridge. It was formed of a single, broad and thick
- plank of the tulip wood. This was forty feet long, and spanned the
- interval between shore and shore with a slight but very perceptible
- arch, preventing all oscillation. From the southern extreme of the lake
- issued a continuation of the rivulet, which, after meandering for,
- perhaps, thirty yards, finally passed through the 'depression' (already
- described) in the middle of the southern declivity, and tumbling down a
- sheer precipice of a hundred feet, made its devious and unnoticed way to
- the Hudson.
-
- The lake was deep--at some points thirty feet--but the rivulet seldom
- exceeded three, while its greatest width was about eight. Its bottom
- and banks were as those of the pond--if a defect could have been
- attributed to them, in point of picturesqueness, it was that of
- excessive neatness.
-
- The expanse of the green turf was relieved, here and there, by an
- occasional showy shrub, such as the hydrangea, or the common snow-ball,
- or the aromatic seringa; or, more frequently, by a clump of geraniums
- blossoming gorgeously in great varieties. These latter grew in pots
- which were carefully buried in the soil, so as to give the plants the
- appearance of being indigenous. Besides all this, the lawn's velvet was
- exquisitely spotted with sheep--a considerable flock of which roamed
- about the vale, in company with three tamed deer, and a vast number of
- brilliantly-plumed ducks. A very large mastiff seemed to be in vigilant
- attendance upon these animals, each and all.
-
- Along the eastern and western cliffs--where, towards the upper portion
- of the amphitheatre, the boundaries were more or less precipitous--grew
- ivy in great profusion--so that only here and there could even a glimpse
- of the naked rock be obtained. The northern precipice, in like manner,
- was almost entirely clothed by grape-vines of rare luxuriance; some
- springing from the soil at the base of the cliff, and others from ledges
- on its face.
-
- The slight elevation which formed the lower boundary of this little
- domain, was crowned by a neat stone wall, of sufficient height to
- prevent the escape of the deer. Nothing of the fence kind was
- observable elsewhere; for nowhere else was an artificial enclosure
- needed:--any stray sheep, for example, which should attempt to make its
- way out of the vale by means of the ravine, would find its progress
- arrested, after a few yards' advance, by the precipitous ledge of rock
- over which tumbled the cascade that had arrested my attention as I first
- drew near the domain. In short, the only ingress or egress was through
- a grate occupying a rocky pass in the road, a few paces below the point
- at which I stopped to reconnoitre the scene.
-
- I have described the brook as meandering very irregularly through the
- whole of its course. Its two general directions, as I have said, were
- first from west to east, and then from north to south. At the turn, the
- stream, sweeping backwards, made an almost circular loop, so as to form
- a peninsula which was very nearly an island, and which included about
- the sixteenth of an acre. On this peninsula stood a dwelling-house--and
- when I say that this house, like the infernal terrace seen by Vathek,
- 'etait d'une architecture inconnue dans les annales de la terre', I
- mean, merely, that its tout ensemble struck me with the keenest sense of
- combined novelty and propriety--in a word, of poetry-- (for, than in the
- words just employed, I could scarcely give, of poetry in the abstract, a
- more rigorous definition)--and I do not mean that the merely outre was
- perceptible in any respect.
-
- In fact, nothing could well be more simple--more utterly unpretending
- than this cottage. Its marvellous effect lay altogether in its artistic
- arrangement as a picture. I could have fancied, while I looked at it,
- that some eminent landscape- painter had built it with his brush.
-
- The point of view from which I first saw the valley, was not altogether,
- although it was nearly, the best point from which to survey the house.
- I will therefore describe it as I afterwards saw it--from a position on
- the stone wall at the southern extreme of the amphitheatre.
-
- The main building was about twenty-four feet long and sixteen
- broad--certainly not more. Its total height, from the ground to the
- apex of the roof, could not have exceeded eighteen feet. To the west
- end of this structure was attached one about a third smaller in all its
- proportions:--the line of its front standing back about two yards from
- that of the larger house; and the line of its roof, of course, being
- considerably depressed below that of the roof adjoining. At right
- angles to these buildings, and from the rear of the main one--not
- exactly in the middle--extended a third compartment, very small--being,
- in general, one third less than the western wing. The roofs of the two
- larger were very steep--sweeping down from the ridge-beam with a long
- concave curve, and extending at least four feet beyond the walls in
- front, so as to form the roofs of two piazzas. These latter roofs, of
- course, needed no support; but as they had the air of needing it, slight
- and perfectly plain pillars were inserted at the corners alone. The
- roof of the northern wing was merely an extension of a portion of the
- main roof. Between the chief building and western wing arose a very
- tall and rather slender square chimney of hard Dutch bricks, alternately
- black and red:--a slight cornice of projecting bricks at the top. Over
- the gables, the roofs also projected very much:--in the main building
- about four feet to the east and two to the west. The principal door was
- not exactly in the main division, being a little to the east--while the
- two windows were to the west. These latter did not extend to the floor,
- but were much longer and narrower than usual--they had single shutters
- like doors--the panes were of lozenge form, but quite large. The door
- itself had its upper half of glass, also in lozenge panes--a moveable
- shutter secured it at night. The door to the west wing was in its
- gable, and quite simple--a single window looked out to the south. There
- was no external door to the north wing, and it, also, had only one
- window to the east.
-
- The blank wall of the eastern gable was relieved by stairs (with a
- balustrade) running diagonally across it--the ascent being from the
- south. Under cover of the widely-projecting eave these steps gave
- access to a door leading into the garret, or rather loft--for it was
- lighted only by a single window to the north, and seemed to have been
- intended as a store-room.
-
- The piazzas of the main building and western wing had no floors, as is
- usual; but at the doors and at each window, large, flat, irregular slabs
- of granite lay imbedded in the delicious turf, affording comfortable
- footing in all weather. Excellent paths of the same material--not
- nicely adapted, but with the velvety sod filling frequent intervals
- between the stones, led hither and thither from the house, to a crystal
- spring about five paces off, to the road, or to one or two outhouses
- that lay to the north, beyond the brook, and were thoroughly concealed
- by a few locusts and catalpas.
-
- Not more than six steps from the main door of the cottage stood the dead
- trunk of a fantastic pear-tree, so clothed from head to foot in the
- gorgeous bignonia blossoms that one required no little scrutiny to
- determine what manner of sweet thing it could be. From various arms of
- this tree hung cages of different kinds. In one, a large wicker
- cylinder with a ring at top, revelled a mocking bird; in another, an
- oriole; in a third, the impudent bobolink--while three or four more
- delicate prisons were loudly vocal with canaries.
-
- The pillars of the piazza were enwreathed in jasmine and sweet
- honeysuckle; while from the angle formed by the main structure and its
- west wing, in front, sprang a grape-vine of unexampled luxuriance.
- Scorning all restraint, it had clambered first to the lower roof--then
- to the higher; and along the ridge of this latter it continued to writhe
- on, throwing out tendrils to the right and left, until at length it
- fairly attained the east gable, and fell trailing over the stairs.
-
- The whole house, with its wings, was constructed of the old- fashioned
- Dutch shingles--broad, and with unrounded corners. It is a peculiarity
- of this material to give houses built of it the appearance of being
- wider at bottom than at top--after the manner of Egyptian architecture;
- and in the present instance, this exceedingly picturesque effect was
- aided by numerous pots of gorgeous flowers that almost encompassed the
- base of the buildings.
-
- The shingles were painted a dull grey; and the happiness with which this
- neutral tint melted into the vivid green of the tulip tree leaves that
- partially overshadowed the cottage, can readily be conceived by an
- artist.
-
- From the position near the stone wall, as described, the buildings were
- seen at great advantage--for the south-eastern angle was thrown
- forward--so that the eye took in at once the whole of the two fronts,
- with the picturesque eastern gable, and at the same time obtained just a
- sufficient glimpse of the northern wing, with parts of a pretty roof to
- the spring-house, and nearly half of a light bridge that spanned the
- brook in the near vicinity of the main buildings.
-
- I did not remain very long on the brow of the hill, although long enough
- to make a thorough survey of the scene at my feet. It was clear that I
- had wandered from the road to the village, and I had thus good
- traveller's excuse to open the gate before me, and inquire my way, at
- all events; so, without more ado, I proceeded.
-
- The road, after passing the gate, seemed to lie upon a natural ledge,
- sloping gradually down along the face of the north-eastern cliffs. It
- led me on to the foot of the northern precipice, and thence over the
- bridge, round by the eastern gable to the front door. In this progress,
- I took notice that no sight of the out-houses could be obtained.
-
- As I turned the corner of the gable, the mastiff bounded towards me in
- stern silence, but with the eye and the whole air of a tiger. I held
- him out my hand, however, in token of amity-- and I never yet knew the
- dog who was proof against such an appeal to his courtesy. He not only
- shut his mouth and wagged his tail, but absolutely offered me his
- paw--afterwards extending his civilities to Ponto.
-
- As no bell was discernible, I rapped with my stick against the door,
- which stood half open. Instantly a figure advanced to the
- threshold--that of a young woman about twenty-eight years of
- age--slender, or rather slight, and somewhat above the medium height.
- As she approached, with a certain modest decision of step altogether
- indescribable, I said to myself, 'Surely here I have found the
- perfection of natural, in contra-distinction from artificial grace.'
- The second impression which she made on me, but by far the more vivid of
- the two, was that of enthusiasm. So intense an expression of romance,
- perhaps I should call it, or of unworldliness, as that which gleamed
- from her deep-set eyes, had never so sunk into my heart of hearts
- before. I know not how it is, but this peculiar expression of the eye,
- wreathing itself occasionally into the lips, is the most powerful, if
- not absolutely the sole spell, which rivets my interest in woman.
- 'Romance', provided my readers fully comprehend what I would here imply
- by the word--'romance' and 'womanliness' seem to me convertible terms;
- and, after all, what man truly loves in woman is, simply, her womanhood.
- The eyes of Annie (I heard some one from the interior call her 'Annie,
- darling!') were 'spiritual grey'; her hair, a light chestnut: this is
- all I had time to observe of her.
-
- At her most courteous of invitations, I entered--passing first into a
- tolerably wide vestibule. Having come mainly to observe, I took notice
- that to my right as I stepped in, was a window, such as those in front
- of the house; to the left, a door leading into the principal room;
- while, opposite me, an open door enabled me to see a small apartment,
- just the size of the vestibule, arranged as a study, and having a large
- bow window looking out to the north.
-
- Passing into the parlour, I found myself with Mr Landor--for this, I
- afterwards found, was his name. He was civil, even cordial in his
- manner; but just then, I was more intent on observing the arrangements
- of the dwelling which had so much interested me, than the personal
- appearance of the tenant.
-
- The north wing, I now saw, was a bed-chamber: its door opened into the
- parlour. West of this door was a single window, looking towards the
- brook. At the west end of the parlour, were a fire-place, and a door
- leading into the west wing--probably a kitchen.
-
- Nothing could be more rigorously simple than the furniture of the
- parlour. On the floor was an ingrain carpet, of excellent texture--a
- white ground, spotted with small circular green figures. At the windows
- were curtains of snowy white jaconet muslin: they were tolerably full,
- and hung decisively, perhaps rather formally, in sharp, parallel plaits
- to the floor--just to the floor. The walls were papered with a French
- paper of great delicacy--a silver ground, with a faint green cord
- running zig- zag throughout. Its expanse was relieved merely by three
- of Julien's exquisite lithographs a trois crayons, fastened to the wall
- without frames. One of these drawings was a scene of Oriental luxury,
- or rather voluptuousness; another was a 'carnival piece', spirited
- beyond compare; the third was a Greek female head--a face so divinely
- beautiful, and yet of an expression so provokingly indeterminate, never
- before arrested my attention.
-
- The more substantial furniture consisted of a round table, a few chairs
- (including a large rocking-chair), and a sofa, or rather 'settee': its
- material was plain maple painted a creamy white, slightly interstriped
- with green--the seat of cane. The chairs and table were 'to match'; but
- the forms of all had evidently been designed by the same brain which
- planned 'the grounds': it is impossible to conceive anything more
- graceful.
-
- On the table were a few books; a large, square, crystal bottle of some
- novel perfume; a plain, ground-glass astral (not solar) lamp, with an
- Italian shade; and a large vase of resplendently-blooming flowers.
- Flowers indeed of gorgeous colours and delicate odour, formed the sole
- mere decoration of the apartment. The fire-place was nearly filled with
- a vase of brilliant geranium. On a triangular shelf in each angle of
- the room stood also a similar vase, varied only as to its lovely
- contents. One or two smaller bouquets adorned the mantel; and late
- violets clustered about the open windows.
-
- It is not the purpose of this work to do more than give, in detail, a
- picture of Mr Landor's residence--as I found it.
-